It's been a long time since I last blogged. Mainly because work suddenly got a lot busier over the last few months and I have been staying late in the evenings, leaving very little time for actual life. Weekends have been busy too with finishing off the house, working on the garden and even squeezing in a holiday.
Anyway, I realised that I hadn't written a post since April and lots has happened since then, including a trip to Copenhagen in May. I know it was a while ago, but I sort of treat this blog like a diary and I like being able to look back and remember what we did.
We just had four days but it was plenty of time to explore and get to know the city a little bit. We stayed in the meatpacking district in a very sweet airbnb that was really close to everything. We relied lots on the excellent recommendations made by Hannah from Seeds and Stitches. They were totally perfect for us!
The meatpacking district was very cool. Full of interesting restaurants and beautiful people. Students carrying pizzas, friends drinking outside bars in the evenings, trendy parents pushing babies in prams. It had a lovely relaxed feel and we liked it alot. We had two lovely meals there, in Pate Pate and Mother. Mmm, mmm.
On our first morning we headed out for brunch to Granola on Vesterbrograde, which we had read good things about. We weren't disappointed - the food was really good - but it was super busy and a bit touristy.
Vesterbrogade itself was a lovely street. Lined with pretty shops and bars, bustling and lively.
All over Copenhagen there were flower shops, full of things that I would have like to take home.
We found a particularly lovely shop on Vesterbrogade that I took some photos of. We couldn't afford very much but we did buy my sister a rather beautiful marble candlestick.
I loved these sea urchin mobiles. So so beautiful.
After a mooch around, we headed into the centre to see the sights.
We happened across this brass band in one of the main squares.
We headed towards the Latin Quarter where the university is. The sun shone and we spent a few hours wandering, acclimatising to the city and getting our bearings.
The whole of this area is pedestrianised which makes it a lovely relaxing place to walk around.
I loved the colourful buildings. All so pristine!
We had lunch in Paludan Bogcafe, a book-lined library-cafe with cheap food and lots of students milling around.
After lunch we wandered down towards Cristianshavn, which is a little island separated from the city by a network of canals.
We passed various very tempting shops and did some window shopping.
We stopped by the canal for a cup of coffee and a pastry.
Did I mention the pastry? Oh my. We sampled our first from Lagkagehuset and boy were they good. Buttery,squidgy, cinnamony deliciousness.
We soaked up some sunshine and watched the boats go by.
Later on we took a walk down to Christiania. We were curious to see what it was like.
Christiania is an autonomous enclave within the city that was founded by a group of homeless Copenhageners in 1971. It has its own rules, the residents don't pay taxes and they live in their houses for free. It's a controversial place for those reasons (oh and the fact that it has an open cannabis trade).
It was an interesting place to walk around though.The houses are all different from one another and each of them decorated in the most unique and wonderful ways.
We came across these two friendly fellows too. There was a little farm among the houses!
It was a bit a bit seedy and also a bit intimidating. Lots of people hanging around drinking and smoking weed. After a bit of a wander I was happy to leave.
After that we went to have a look at Noma and watched the sun go down on the water, before heading home.
The next day we got up early-ish and happened across a flea market right on our doorstep!
I was a happy girl!
After some browsing and a little bit of shoppsing, we decided to hire bikes and do like the Copenhageners. The city is totally walkable but it was fun speeding around on our four wheels.
It was a bit chilly so we stopped off mid ride at Brodflov for a bit of brekkie. (Yep, more danish pastries).
Incredible doughy pastries and beautiful Scandi decor.
We noticed all over Copenhagen that candles were lit during the day in cafes and shops and it was totally lovely. The Danes have a concept called "hygge" which roughly translates as coziness. It's about creating a warm atmosphere, spending time with friends and hunkering down in the warmth while winter stretches on outside. I felt very inspired to light more candles.
After our pitstop, we cycled to Jaegersborggade in Norrebro which was once a rather grimy street, but is now lined with pretty boutiques, cafes and restaurants.
We loved this street and wished we could eat about 4 lunches, there were so many amazing looking places to eat! (If only we hadn't eaten so many pastries).
We came across the cutest shop selling all sorts of lovelies including a huge range of house plants and succulents. I bought myself a pilea peperomiodes which I was totally thrilled about - I've been looking for one for a long time. He came back on the plane with us (and he's still alive now!)
We cycled over to the Torvehallerne food market for a spot of lunch and a mooch around the food stalls.
After alot of food-indecision we settled for a hotdog.
That evening we met up with my sister and her friends (who happened to be in Copenhagen on the same weekend!) and got accidentally drunk on very strong cocktails, had a very late, rather drunken pizza and chatted non stop all evening. Yay!
The next morning we went in search of carbs and wandered into an unassuming little cafe that turned out to be full of trendy Copenhageners supping steaming coffee and munching avocado on toast. Excellent.
After a restorative breakfast my hangover started to lift and we headed to the train station for our next adventure.
....to Louisiana!
This incredible modern art gallery is just a short train ride away from the city but like a completely different world. Green and atmospheric, with views of the sea and the sky and even Sweden on a clear day.
Oh and did I mention wonderful majestic sculptures, nestled among the trees and on the lawns, sitting there waiting to be discovered.
There was an amazing exhibition by Richard Mosse called The Enclave which I could have looked at all day. Giant luminous photos in vivid pinks and reds, shining out of the darkness.
Lovely David Hockney drawings.
And a room full of Giacomettis!
Such a special place. Beautiful, beautiful.
In the evening R convinced me that we should try some "new Nordic" cuisine, despite my reservations (I'm not the biggest fan of fancy pancy food). But I'm very glad he did!
We went to Host, which was totally wonderful. Simple, atmospheric, both in terms of food and decor. Unfinished wooden tables, roughly hewn stoneware, gentle darkness and candlelight, dish upon dish of strangeness and delight.
Some things we loved, some things we weren't so sure about. But everything was so unusual, so beautiful that we talked about it all.
These were snail shells filled with homemade marshmallows and truffles. Ooh-Ooh!
On our last day we said goodbye to our bikes and to Copenhagen. We had a parting pizza at Mother just round the corner from our flat before going to get our flight.
Delicious!
Such a cool place - decorated with tree trunks and branches so pretty much my idea of heaven.
Very happy husband!
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